1) Displacement: 51.7cc
2) Power: 1.40kw/6500rpm
3) Form of Carburetor: Diaphragm with prime
4) Mixed Fuel Ratio: 30: 1 (Gasoline 30: Two-cycle oil FB 1)
5) Shaft Tube Diameter: 26mm
6) Cutting Width for Dlade: 255mm
7) Cutting Width for Trimmer: 415mm
8) Cutting Line: 2.4mm*5M (nylon line)
9) Net Weight: 7.8kgs
10) Package Dimension: 1820*293*417mm/2pcs
11) Conveyance: 260pcs/20'GP, 520pcs/40'GP
12) Certificate: GS and CE
Sunday, March 8, 2009
22inch Self-Propelled Lawn mower
1) Engine: Briggs and Stratton engine (import from USA)
2) Engine Type: Single cylinder, 4-stroke force air-cooled engine
3) Power: 6.0HP
4) No Load Speed: 3000rpm
5) Max Working Speed: 3600rpm
6) Displacement: 190cc
7) Fuel Tank Capacity: 1.5L
8) Drive Type: Self-propelled
9) Forward Speed: 3.8 km/h
10) Cutting Width: 558mm (22 inch)
11) Cutting Height: 15mm-75mm/ 14 positions adjustable
12) Deck: Heavy Duty Steel
13) Grass Catcher: 65.0L nylon bag
14) Front Wheel(plastic): 200mm (8 inch)
15) Rear Wheel(plastic): 200mm (8 inch)
16) Packing Size: 920mm*615mm*450mm per carton
17) G. W. /N. W.: 43.00kgs/41.00kgs
18) Noise ≤100dBA
19) Conveyance Quantity: 105pcs/20'GP, 220pcs/40'GP
20) Certificate: GS and CE. EURO II approved for engine
2) Engine Type: Single cylinder, 4-stroke force air-cooled engine
3) Power: 6.0HP
4) No Load Speed: 3000rpm
5) Max Working Speed: 3600rpm
6) Displacement: 190cc
7) Fuel Tank Capacity: 1.5L
8) Drive Type: Self-propelled
9) Forward Speed: 3.8 km/h
10) Cutting Width: 558mm (22 inch)
11) Cutting Height: 15mm-75mm/ 14 positions adjustable
12) Deck: Heavy Duty Steel
13) Grass Catcher: 65.0L nylon bag
14) Front Wheel(plastic): 200mm (8 inch)
15) Rear Wheel(plastic): 200mm (8 inch)
16) Packing Size: 920mm*615mm*450mm per carton
17) G. W. /N. W.: 43.00kgs/41.00kgs
18) Noise ≤100dBA
19) Conveyance Quantity: 105pcs/20'GP, 220pcs/40'GP
20) Certificate: GS and CE. EURO II approved for engine
Friday, February 27, 2009
www.easyto.me
The look of the garden can be influenced strongly by the boundary impinges. Planting can be used to modify the boundary line or a line between an area of rough grass and smooth, depending on the size of the plot. Introducing internal boundaries, perhaps in the form of hedges or group of shrubs, can help break up a garden.
Hedges vary their colors throughout the seasons dramatically. Hedges, being strong features in a garden, are often used to divide sections of the garden. However, since they use the moisture and nutrient from the garden soil to grow as well as other plants, they may not be a good choice and may bring a negative effect to the other plants.
Besides the boundaries that are made up of plants like the hedges, walls made up of various materials can be built between regions. There are broadly three types of walling material: stone, either random or coursed, brick, and concrete in its various forms. It is good to determine what color, size, and texture will be most appropriate for the garden before actually building the wall.
According to Brookes, fencing can offer an alternative solution, is the walls are too solid for the region of the garden. There are several numbers of fence types that can be used for a garden: animal-proof fence for country situations, peep-proof fences for the suburbs, and urban fences that provide shelter from the winds in exposed roof-top gardens and create internal barriers.
Location and soil
The main issue when constructing a garden is where to make it. Many of the great gardens in the history and today often include: a location that is topographically significant, a suitable microclimate for plants, a well-designed connection to water, and rich soil. However, a good garden design, which is well-planned and constructed, can boost up the value of the garden more than just its location.
First, excavated subsoil and topsoil carefully need to be amended, depending on ratio of clay to humus (soil acidity or alkalinity should be taken into account as well); Mix amendment thoroughly with existing native soil. Be sure to till and amend an area twice the size high and wide of any plant container. Also, "conditioning the soil thoroughly before planting enables the plants to establish themselves quickly and so play their part in the design."[1] Since “many native plants prefer an impoverished soil, and the closer to their natural habitat they are in the garden, the better,” a poor soil is better than a rich soil that has been artificially enriched.
First, excavated subsoil and topsoil carefully need to be amended, depending on ratio of clay to humus (soil acidity or alkalinity should be taken into account as well); Mix amendment thoroughly with existing native soil. Be sure to till and amend an area twice the size high and wide of any plant container. Also, "conditioning the soil thoroughly before planting enables the plants to establish themselves quickly and so play their part in the design."[1] Since “many native plants prefer an impoverished soil, and the closer to their natural habitat they are in the garden, the better,” a poor soil is better than a rich soil that has been artificially enriched.
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